Banaue Rice Terraces

from the travel journals of Serge Kabamalan, supporter of Our Melting Pot

Banaue in the northern part of Luzon Island offers an exciting and breath-taking view of the Philippine highlands. It showcases a very ancient way of living in harmony with nature, crowned by its rice terraces built by hand by the Ifugao tribes who are believed to be related to the Miao tribe of China. Popularly known as the Banaue Rice Terraces, it is actually a part of an ingenious and sprawling system of rice paddies called, the “Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As a young boy, I was taught more than once by my grade school teachers that it is “The Eighth Wonder of the World. I would often gawk at pictures of it that look like steps in green mountains going to the heavens. If its pictures could be so enthralling I wondered how much more if go to see it. So, I vowed that I shall visit the place one day. But I only got the chance to see it when I was already working. Taking a leave from work for 2 days that straddles over the weekend, I took a 10 PM bus from Espana, Manila and alternately watched the DVD movie shown on board, slept (when I could) and took refreshments during stopovers (which are adventures by themselves).

After that 9 hour ride in the darkness, I was ready to concede to an uneventful day of rest for the coming day while making a mental note of adjustments I had to make on my itinerary. But as the sun's first glimmer revealed the mountain fastness of the Philippine Cordilleras, what I beheld made me gasp with excitement and wonder, and I quickly forgot about my longing to rest. Wherever I set my eyes on captivated my interest. Majestic view of mountains clad with pines and embraced by low lying clouds as far as the eyes can see! Cascading waters running along the roads and under the bridges! Quaint villages nestled on gently rolling slopes of vegetable gardens set against the towering peaks! In no time, I was transfixed by the passing sceneries which augured well for a beautiful adventure in Banaue. The travel may be long and tiring, but the early morning view and the crisp coolness of the air was enough to invigorate me, as I was filled with so much expectation.

I hailed a tricycle to bring me to the town center where I was told I could get a cheap accommodation. And true enough, without even reserving a room from Manila I got one for only PhP 400 with a private bath. Later, I would find out that there were accommodations as low as PhP 100-150 per bed in various inns and hostels around. But the room I got had a great view of the Banaue Rice Terraces.

On with the plan despite a fitful sleep on the bus! I spent that day hiking the mountain trails, visiting some museums and old traditional Ifugao houses. People were friendly and helpful. The children would greet me and ask for candies. A hike along the road leading to several viewpoints afforded me priceless sights of this ancient, human-made structure, part of a sprawling rice terraces system that straddles different provinces in the Cordilleras. From these viewpoints, it is easy to believe that these hand-made terraces placed end-to-end could go half-way around the globe.

I was there during the planting season and was mesmerized. So, I could only imagine and pine for its glory when the rice paddies are filled with golden grains ready for the harvest!

A talk with some locals surprisingly gave me an instant introduction to the place's history. One even invited me into his family house to see pictures and mementoes of Banaue's past, and of a people that depends so much on nature's harshness and bounty.

The next day, I went to Batad, a spectacularly tiered and amphitheatre-shaped terraces with a small village down where the terraces begin. I went through a 12 km jeepney ride which was not for the faint of heart. It was bumpy and tremulous. But the jeepney driver showed great dexterity in navigating the narrow passages especially where we met cars and buses going the other way. At times, I felt that one wheel of the jeep was over the ravine, and just one strong kick would send all passengers and baggage into free fall. But picturesque mountains, verdant valleys, rivers and waterfalls continued to captivate all my attention. So, worry and fear were easily replaced with excitement as nature’s wonders unfold one after the other which became even more apparent when I began hiking, up then down, toward my destination.

At Battad, I was really amazed by the sheer beauty of its terraces, the warmth and hospitality of the villagers, the simple but creative culinary fusion in the food served at local eateries (e.g. pizza topped with cabbage, tomatoes and cheese, spiked with local herbs and spices), the small stone and wooden benches offered to weary hikers while cooling our feet, the friendly and helpful guides, the distinctive flavor of tapuey or rice wine, the allure ofTappia Falls, the tall sampaloc trees lit by fireflies like a living Christmas tree at night, the long and winding hikes in and around the terraces, and countless other wonders along the way. To top it all, I had the privilege to stay in one of the traditional Ifugao houses that still stand proud, blending well with the splendid view. It is designed well for the cold climate of these northern Luzon mountains, and I was kept warm and comfortable through the night.

I still carry the memory of that trip fresh in my mind, savoring it while promising I shall go visit it again!

Backpacking in the Philippines: Practical Tips

http://cheapaccommodationmanila.blogspot.com/

Before 2009, finding a cheap accommodation in Manila or in the Philippines for that matter was limited to renting rooms for the night. Your options were actually confined to finding budget hotels in your preferred tourist destination, especially when you are taking a pit stop in Manila.

But backpackers or cheap accommodation in Manila and in key cities or tourist spots in the country has become more accessible now. Even if you wish to hit the beach, some cottages in Boracay, for instance, cater to tourists who are comfortable with staying in a dormitory with other transient individuals. In the metropolis, Malate dominates the scene as there are probably more than 5 hostel owners offering bed and breakfast accommodation for itinerant beings. Makati City, which is the entertainment and financial capital of Metro Manila, already boasts of a new and excellent backpacking joint called OUR MELTING POT. Indeed, these are a welcome development for many because even traditional cheap accommodations in the country can get fairly high come summer season -- March to June. Whereas in the case of hostels, prices are relatively stable.

Another good thing about traveling to the Philippines is the purchasing power of foreign-dominated notes. Your dollar or Brit pound or Euro or Yen can go a long LONG way.

The average conversions (depending on forex rates) are like:

• 1 US Dollar - PhP (Philippine Peso): PhP 48-50

• 1 Brit Pound - PhP: PhP 90+

• 1 Euro - PhP: PhP 65+

So for like, a thousand dollars, that's equivalent to about 48,000+ pesos (or Php 90,000+ if you use Brit pounds) can cover everything: from food to transports, to lodging and night life and souvenirs.

Language barrier is not a problem, especially if you know English. The country's long history of colonization produced modern-day Filipinos who are very comfortable with the English language. (The native language is also rich in Spanish-derived words.) You would be surprised that even the seemingly uneducated beggars on the street can converse with you in English. For the more adventurous ones, learning the language of the local which is Filipino, and the primary dialects Tagalog and Visaya may come in handy when huggling for the best deals in the course of your travel. It can be pretty difficult at first to learn. But if you're a veteran backpacker, you'll get the hang of it in a little time. Buying a phrasebook helps but it's very rare to find one about the Philippines.

Local transportation (that is, the obscure towns near the good sites and not the big cosmopolitan cities like Manila and Cebu) is cheap. For prices that range from 5 to 20 pesos, you can travel by tricycle (the Philippine version of Bangkok's 'tuk-tuk'), jeepney, or any local transport modes. Buses are cheap as well while taxis command relatively higher prices depending on their routes. Traveling from any of the major islands would mean taking an extra flight which can cost a bit for foreign tourists if you don't book your trip early. Two weeks planning, however, would help you secure the cheapest deal from Philippine Airlines' econolight fares. For those who prefer another mode of transporation apart from taking commercial planes, the ferry (one trusted carrier is Superferry) can also be an enjoyable experience. However, a tight schedule should propel a traveler to take domestic flights to be able to maximize your time in the country.

As for food, the dishes are amazingly numerous and varied. Anywhere you go, there will always be a different culinary delight to please your palate. Few foreign travelers would be able to escape the challenge posed by your local friend or acquaintance in relation to eating the renowned "aborted duckling" or "balut". It's actually duck egg with a nearly formed embryo of a duckling inside. Pinoys usually laugh when tourists try it and then hurl at the sight of what they're about to eat. Even then, it's a culinary experience you wouldn't want to pass up, no matter how icky it looks! It's mostly sold on the streets where available, along with other local delicacies (all of which are within your prescribed budget). Apart from that, the rest of the Philippine cuisine is deliciously whacked! If you have a sweet tooth, definitely you will have a feast. One Caucasian friend remarked that she's not eaten as much sweets in her 30 years of existence as she did staying in the Philippines for nearly a week. The native delicacies are irresistible. Even if you have excellent self-control, it would be difficult to say no to local friends offering you all sorts of stuff, while at the same time demonstrating to you that the Filipino warmth is simply unbeatable in any part of the world.

Common sense will also tell you that any streetwise backpacker will never show BLING. Dress down, chances are you'll fit in quite nicely. Also, it's always a big help if you smile most of the time. Filipinos are really true to form: hospitable and friendly. And then there are the rip-off artists and travel scams. Be cautious at the same time. Local customs such as a simple smile and thank you will help a lot.

Finally, the best thing to do when you come here would be to drink it all in. The sights are amazing and everything is just great. But if you are a tourist on a budget, everything starts with finding a cheap accommodation in manila.

(paraphrased and edited version of the post of J. Brent Esarza, 20 Feb 2005)