Banaue Rice Terraces

from the travel journals of Serge Kabamalan, supporter of Our Melting Pot

Banaue in the northern part of Luzon Island offers an exciting and breath-taking view of the Philippine highlands. It showcases a very ancient way of living in harmony with nature, crowned by its rice terraces built by hand by the Ifugao tribes who are believed to be related to the Miao tribe of China. Popularly known as the Banaue Rice Terraces, it is actually a part of an ingenious and sprawling system of rice paddies called, the “Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As a young boy, I was taught more than once by my grade school teachers that it is “The Eighth Wonder of the World. I would often gawk at pictures of it that look like steps in green mountains going to the heavens. If its pictures could be so enthralling I wondered how much more if go to see it. So, I vowed that I shall visit the place one day. But I only got the chance to see it when I was already working. Taking a leave from work for 2 days that straddles over the weekend, I took a 10 PM bus from Espana, Manila and alternately watched the DVD movie shown on board, slept (when I could) and took refreshments during stopovers (which are adventures by themselves).

After that 9 hour ride in the darkness, I was ready to concede to an uneventful day of rest for the coming day while making a mental note of adjustments I had to make on my itinerary. But as the sun's first glimmer revealed the mountain fastness of the Philippine Cordilleras, what I beheld made me gasp with excitement and wonder, and I quickly forgot about my longing to rest. Wherever I set my eyes on captivated my interest. Majestic view of mountains clad with pines and embraced by low lying clouds as far as the eyes can see! Cascading waters running along the roads and under the bridges! Quaint villages nestled on gently rolling slopes of vegetable gardens set against the towering peaks! In no time, I was transfixed by the passing sceneries which augured well for a beautiful adventure in Banaue. The travel may be long and tiring, but the early morning view and the crisp coolness of the air was enough to invigorate me, as I was filled with so much expectation.

I hailed a tricycle to bring me to the town center where I was told I could get a cheap accommodation. And true enough, without even reserving a room from Manila I got one for only PhP 400 with a private bath. Later, I would find out that there were accommodations as low as PhP 100-150 per bed in various inns and hostels around. But the room I got had a great view of the Banaue Rice Terraces.

On with the plan despite a fitful sleep on the bus! I spent that day hiking the mountain trails, visiting some museums and old traditional Ifugao houses. People were friendly and helpful. The children would greet me and ask for candies. A hike along the road leading to several viewpoints afforded me priceless sights of this ancient, human-made structure, part of a sprawling rice terraces system that straddles different provinces in the Cordilleras. From these viewpoints, it is easy to believe that these hand-made terraces placed end-to-end could go half-way around the globe.

I was there during the planting season and was mesmerized. So, I could only imagine and pine for its glory when the rice paddies are filled with golden grains ready for the harvest!

A talk with some locals surprisingly gave me an instant introduction to the place's history. One even invited me into his family house to see pictures and mementoes of Banaue's past, and of a people that depends so much on nature's harshness and bounty.

The next day, I went to Batad, a spectacularly tiered and amphitheatre-shaped terraces with a small village down where the terraces begin. I went through a 12 km jeepney ride which was not for the faint of heart. It was bumpy and tremulous. But the jeepney driver showed great dexterity in navigating the narrow passages especially where we met cars and buses going the other way. At times, I felt that one wheel of the jeep was over the ravine, and just one strong kick would send all passengers and baggage into free fall. But picturesque mountains, verdant valleys, rivers and waterfalls continued to captivate all my attention. So, worry and fear were easily replaced with excitement as nature’s wonders unfold one after the other which became even more apparent when I began hiking, up then down, toward my destination.

At Battad, I was really amazed by the sheer beauty of its terraces, the warmth and hospitality of the villagers, the simple but creative culinary fusion in the food served at local eateries (e.g. pizza topped with cabbage, tomatoes and cheese, spiked with local herbs and spices), the small stone and wooden benches offered to weary hikers while cooling our feet, the friendly and helpful guides, the distinctive flavor of tapuey or rice wine, the allure ofTappia Falls, the tall sampaloc trees lit by fireflies like a living Christmas tree at night, the long and winding hikes in and around the terraces, and countless other wonders along the way. To top it all, I had the privilege to stay in one of the traditional Ifugao houses that still stand proud, blending well with the splendid view. It is designed well for the cold climate of these northern Luzon mountains, and I was kept warm and comfortable through the night.

I still carry the memory of that trip fresh in my mind, savoring it while promising I shall go visit it again!

What To Do in the Philippines?

http://cheapaccommodationmanila.blogspot.com/

The Travel Adventures of Bex Davis

from the files of busybee621

Our first featured guest in OUR MELTING POT is fondly called Bex. She is originally from New Zealand but works in Korea as an English teacher. She visited the Philippines last month and left us a lot more impressions than we expected.

I was not in the hostel when Bex arrived but our short conversation over the phone gave me an inkling how decided she was to keep her impossible 3-day itinerary in Manila and other "nearby" provinces before heading off to Boracay Island. I wasn't doubting she could do it because there were obvious indications that our guest came prepared. We were just there to support or maybe spoil (?) her (as she later described in hostelworld). In the process, we saw her presence as an opportunity to learn important tips on WHAT TO DO IN THE PHILIPPINES from the mettle of a first-time traveler in this country which can surely benefit other guests that would come after her.

But Bex who has round, beautiful eyes that looked strict at first has a light, bubbly, spontaneous, no-big-expectation persona. To me, she perfectly represents a true traveler, in contrast to a mere tourist. She immersed herself in the culture and adopted to the same beat of the locals almost immediately. In her first taxi ride within Manila, Bex was asked how many years she's been in the Philippines. The taxi driver's eyes were wide with amusement when she responded: 5 hours. :-)

Going back to Bex's impossible itinerary. She intended to cover Corregidor, Villa Escudero and Pagsanjan falls in her 3 days in Manila. For any one of those 3 pit stops, the journey was to be made in the morning on her last day in Manila, before flying to Boracay at 16:30. Corregidor, fortunately or unfortunately, did not materialize but on her trip to Pagsanjan, she took an exciting turn to Los Banos and Mt. Makiling. Thanks goodness that her last day in Manila didn't bring her feet to far away places. But in all the time she was here, she was able to visit all the big malls: Glorietta, Greenbelt, Powerplant. She had gone to Intramuros, Coconut Palace, Ayala Museum and the Hobbits Bar in Malate (which we only heard for the first time from her). Bex experienced street dining with us at Som's. On her last day, at 12:50nn, she appeared in the hostel, left in a jiffy to squeeze in a local movie at 13:10 which she thought was hilarious. She wasn't probably at the edge of her seat even as it was important to be riding a cab by 15:15, but we were. We just telephoned the hotel managers in Boracay to inform that she was arriving late in the night. We didn't know what happened after until we met in facebook this October.

So, let's sniff a portion of the conversation she had in facebook with a friend as it would tell us some of the meaningful and exciting THINGS TO DO IN MANILA or IN THE PHILIPPINES.
September 29 at 11:50am

Grace Schafer

So, what did you think (about the Philippines)?

Bex Davis

I had the time of my life. I saw so many interesting things, met so many interesting, generous people, didn't get into any scrapes. Though sometimes it was a bit scary, the people i met really looked out for me. Had an absolute adventure. I'm hooked and going back next year after my contract ends. Oh and the food is soooooooo yummy!

I got to Ayala museum, Coconut Palace, Mall of Asia, Intramuros, Villa Escudero, Pagsanjan falls with a wee excursion to Los Banos as i met a guy on the bus who was eager to show me the town and join me in my adventure (yeah i know a big risk but it paid off). I also saw a movie called Kimmy Dora which once i got into it was hilarious. Got to Boracay and had a mad time with the wind, the rain and the locals there. Climbed into a bat cave which i later found out was full of snakes, ate the most delicious food on the beach and held a monkey. Yup i didn't want to leave, and almost didn't due to the typhoon in Manila. But things calmed down enough by the time i was due to leave, though my flights were delayed. I have made so many contacts and there is so much more i want to see, such as I didnt get to Corregidor. Also i wanted to see Palawan and so many things in the north like the rice terraces and the indigenous tribes. Yup the Philippines rock!

Grace Schafer

Phew. I'm so glad that you had a good time. Not a lot of people I know go to the Philippines for a holiday. People used to back in the 70s and stuff. Those people always talk about it like it was the most fun experience of their lives. Glad you liked the food too. It's pretty darn healthy. I remember eating fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Glad you went to Borocay. Too bad about the weather. But you get that. Let me know when you plan to go up north. There's some stuff i should probably give you a heads up on.

Yay for the Philippines!
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END OF (A HAPPY) STORY.

Where To Go in the Philippines?

(photo credits: Ben Beiske of travelblog.org)

Where to go in the Philippines? This country happens to have 7,108 islands when it's low tide; 7,107 when high tide. Choose your pick. Manila is the Philippine capital but it does not atply represent the Philippines. Whatever impression you have of Manila, good or bad, the country's 7,107 island-pearls are mostly phenomenal. They are a sight to behold. Finding one island would sometimes generate a feeling that you would no longer wanna leave. But there are 7,106 more to visit. After some time, it will dawn on you that unfortunately the beauty of the Philippines is impossible to cover in one lifetime. That being said, there's one place in this Archipelago that strikes me differently -- Palawan. Many say, it's the gods' own country. I've never been able to personally write about it because back then I thought it was so very difficult to put into words my own experience.

Yesterday, my friend Liliram (as she is fondly called) sent me an email. I thought the email was a blessing because finally from the writings of a foreigner, the essence of how I felt about Palawan had the most beautiful, touching words to match it. The name of this wonderful traveler is Ben, who is a friend of my friend Lili. So, I'm leading you to the link below if at this point, you still wonder WHERE TO GO IN THE PHILIPPINES?

http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Philippines/Palawan/El-Nido/blog-440947.html

http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Philippines/Palawan/Puerto-Princesa/blog-439099.html